HECTOR

NORMAN

1995 AGM MINUTES

SKEP COURSE

That success makes us want to have other meetings in a similar vein, maybe hive or frame assembly for example. So we're looking again for ideas and support. Once again, John Cain is probably the best contact, but any committee member will listen.

MEMBERSHIP REMINDER

APIARY UPDATE

I check the varroa floor inserts regularly. There has been very little natural mortality since the colonies were treated with Bayvarol last autumn. I now 'heft' the hives regularly too, as we approach the critical time of year for stores.

As I write this (19th February) we are experiencing the third spell of very cold weather this winter. After a run of several mild winters, I have a feeling that some 'proper' winter weather is probably a blessing in disguise for our bees. It could reduce the wasp and wax moth numbers and breaks in brood rearing afford fewer breeding opportunities for varroa.

The mild spells which have alternated with the cold spells have seen the bees active on cleansing flights and even collecting small amounts of pollen. An advantage of over-wintering bees in the garden is that you see things that you might otherwise miss. For example, on Sunday 14th January, which was a mild day, many small loads of pollen were being collected, probably from hellebores.

Many thanks to Mike Butler for volunteering to assist me in the Association's apiaries. I look forward to working with him.

I had a disappointing response to my request for members to volunteer to host apiary meetings. I am grateful to Chris Mounty for inviting us to his new apiary in Bramley on Saturday 1st June.

As the editor reported in the last newsletter, Frank Allan has done a superb job of redecorating the Association's newly-acquired storage/workshop/meeting-room at The Manor in Oakley. Two apiary meetings have been scheduled for The Manor this year to look at my own bees and to make collective use of the new facility. We anticipate that a pattern of use will evolve with time. In the meantime, the building may be used by individual members as a workshop or for limited storage. The keys can be borrowed from either me, John Cain or John Peacock. The second (brick built) building on the site is currently being cleared of builders' materials and should soon be available for Association use.

I would like to remind you that you may keep one or two colonies at St. John's Copse, subject to a prior 'health check' and there not being more than twelve colonies in total on the site. The Association's site at Ramsdell may be used for newly hived swarms by arrangement with me.

Maps showing the location of Chris' site in Bramley, The Manor and St. John's Copse are included with this newsletter. I apologise fort their poor quality. Hopefully, they are simple but effective! Chris will mark the entrance to his field.

Association apiary meetings are always, 'weather permitting'. This years dates are in the diary page. All are Saturdays at 2:30pm. Please mark the dates in your diary -- Mike and I look forward to seeing you. Members and prospective members are welcome to join me at other times by arrangement.

David Purchase (Apiary Manager) Basingstoke 781288

SWEATSHIRTS

WINTER LOSSES

Varroa is now endemic in our area. Losses will be due to various factors but varroa will, at the very least, aggravate the situation. How many of us can be sure whether a lost colony was due directly to varroa, or to nosema exacerbated by varroa, or to varroa weakened colonies succumbing to wasp attacks.

We all feel guilty if we lose a colony when we think that "maybe we could have done better", but at the moment we are all learning, sometimes the hard way, that things don't always go as we expected. Please do report your losses. Please also feel free to say if you think it was or wasn't varroa. If you really do feel that you blew it this time around, please say so -- anonymously if you prefer -- but you won't be alone!

POLLEN FEEDING FUN

BULK-BUY

As usual I shall remind you that I have in stock most of the every-day things that beekeepers need, still excepting much in the way of large hive parts. I keep a Langstroth Jumbo that I can split, but as yet no other hive types. I also keep a number of bits and pieces that you may find useful -- National Hoffman converters, candle wick, some belt wax (maybe some colours soon), frame wire, eyelets, section boxes and squares, labels, Honey for Sale signs, jars and so on. If I don't have it in stock I can get it quickly if necessary but I may have to pass on at least some of the postage.

WANTED: HOMES FOR BEES

SPEAKERS FOR SCHOOLS ETC.

FOLLY FARM

WALLED GARDEN

HOME APIARY MEETINGS AND APRES-BEE.

After the meetings in Oakley, we plan to repair to our new 'Hut' at The Manor for tea or coffee and a chat. I hope also to have available a microscope and magnifier so that we may start to apply and learn from our recent meeting with Beulah. I shall be trying also to arrange a noticeboard for posting information that misses the newsletter for whatever reason. This should also be an ideal venue to "pick people's brains" for advice on matters beekeeping and indeed, to have your own brains picked.

For those of you who are interested in the information I collect from the Internet and would like to look further at the discussions, I hope also to arrange to have printed copies of all of the postings, particularly those I'd like to print in The Basingstoke Beekeeper, but don't have the space for.

TOPICS WANTED

Subjects covered, who gives the talk, when they are available and so on, is something of a balancing act. Sometimes a subject may not get covered because the speaker is unavailable, or is unable to travel to us. Sometimes their fee is simply beyond our means.

Before I make any plans, I would like to know from members, what topics you would like to see covered at future meetings. If you can also suggest someone who covers the subject, so much the better. Perhaps you have an interest outside of beekeeping on which you would be prepared to give a talk. Please drop me a line or telephone on 01256-24015 with suggestions. I can't promise anything but will consider everything you put to me, so long as it's legal and decent.

John Cain.

1996 OFFICERS

President: Charles Oliver-Belassis Vice President Bert Farmer Chairman John Peacock Secretary John Cain Treasurer Norman Hughes Apiary Manager Dave Purchase Asst. ditto Mike Butler Member P. Hallet Member J. Hughes Member G. Scott Cooption S. Scott Delegate J. Furzey Delegate N. Hughes Spray Liaison D. Gooch Spray Liaison J. Hughes

BASINGSTOKE CONSERVATION VOLUNTEERS

The Basingstoke Conservation Volunteers were formed in April 1987 and have grown to a group of some 70 members. We are one of over 800 groups affiliated to the British Trust for Conservation Volunteers, which is a National Charity.

What's it all about?

Go out of Basingstoke in any direction and within a few minutes you are in some of the most beautiful countryside in Hampshire. Turn off the main roads into the narrow lanes flanked by flower strewn verges, hedgerows and ancient woodlands. You will pass through villages with picturesque ponds and through open farmland, common land, heathland and areas of ancient meadowland. We can all gain pleasure from our traditional countryside, but how many of us actually care for it? Do we care that our countryside is increasingly threatened by the pressures of modern society? Do we care about the need to look after the remaining undeveloped areas, especially as some of these need active management if they are to support the species they do.

Basingstoke Conservation Volunteers do care. That is why, nearly every Sunday, a group of us will be found somewhere in the Hampshire countryside carrying out some of this important management work. We could be digging a pond in Pamber Forest to provide a habitat for aquatic wildlife, or planting trees, coppicing or clearing scrub -- whatever the work it is always worthwhile. In addition to the work projects there are opportunities to attend courses in traditional crafts such as hedgelaying, stonewalling and tree felling. There are plenty of social events and joint events with other local conservation groups.

Everyone is welcome to join in, age is no barrier (although children under 12 should be accompanied by a responsible adult). You can work at your own pace and don't need any special skills as basic training will be given in the care and use of tools. Plenty of hot and cold drinks are provided as well as biscuits to keep you going. All you need to bring is a packed lunch and clothes to keep you warm and dry.

Our aim is to have an enjoyable day in the countryside doing a valuable job of work in a safe way. If you would like to come on any of the tasks listed in the programme, contact the task leader or Keith Tulett on Basingstoke 477203

If you would like to become a member then simply fill out the slip and either hand it in to the task leader or post it to:

Basingstoke Conservation Volunteers, PO Box 136, Basingstoke, RG21 7WB. Subscription -- Adults £3.00, Student/Retired/Unwaged £2.00, Family £5.00.

BCV Programme March-May

Sunday 17th March, Hedge maintenance at Kingsclere, Graham Dennis 01734-474934.

Sunday 24th March, Grass and Sedge work at Mapledurwell Fen, Mike Norman, 26339.

Sunday 14th April, Birch/Pine pulling and ditch clearance in Pamber Forest, Paul Olive 817834.

Sunday 28th April, Excursion in Pamber Forest, including the chance to see adders, Rodney Daunt, 468200.

Sunday 21st April, Circular walks from John of Gaunt Pub.

Wednesday 24th April, Snakes head fritillaries at Stratfield Saye, brief meeting and a drink.

Sunday 5th May. A little tools maintenance followed by a walk in Pamber forest.

Sunday 12th May, Work in Pamber Forest, Richard Tysall 20463.

Sunday 19th May, Fencing work at North Warnborough Greens, Mike Norman 26339.

SEALE HAYNE CONFERENCE

(More information via IBRA Home Page)

DEVON BKA/IBRA CONFERENCE July 12-14 1996

Dr Keith Delaplane, University of Georgia USA

• Hot and Cold Bees.
• A Beekeeping Research Hall of Flame.
• Taking the Bite Out of the Mite.

Professor Len Heath, University of Plymouth UK (UK Chalk Brood Expert)

• Sterilisation and Disinfection.
• An Iconoclastic View of Bee Disease.

Dr Max Watkins, Sandoz Ltd.

• Pesticide Resistance.
• Producing Medication.

Dr Michael Proctor. University of Exeter, UK

• Flowers, Pollen and Pollination.
• The Environment's Debt to Pollination.

Dr Stephen Martin, National Bee Unit, UK

• The Life and Death of Varroa.

Mr Len Davie, South West of England, Regional Bee Inspector.

• Great Beekeepers I have Known.

Principal Dinner Guest, Miss Emma Nicholson, MP

Optional Saturday Activities:

• Visit to Buckfast Abbey Bee Department OR
• Dartmoor Walk OR
• Laboratory Pollen Identification.

Get in touch for Details and Registration Form. See You There!

Glyn Davies, Vice Chairman, Devon Beekeepers Association.

GORMANSTON

Summer Course 1996

July 22 to 27

At Francisacn College, Gormanston, near Dublin.

• A full course of lectures in modern Beekeeping.
• Separate courses for Preliminary, Intermediate and Senior.
• Annual Congress of F.I.B.K.A.
• Display of modern beekeeping equipment.
• Irish National Honey Show.
• Furniture Polishing with Beeswax and Shellac.
• Handicrafts
• Practical apiary work (bring veils etc.).
• Coach tour to local place of interest.
• Golf competitions.
• Tennis courts (bring equipment).
• Heated swimming pool.
• Nature trails.

Mr. Adrian Waring; Mr. Doran, Co. Kilkenny; Mr. Bennet, Co. Wexford; Mr. Woulfe, Co. Cork; Mr. O'Callahan, Co. Cork; Mr. O'Mahony, Co. Cork; Mr. MacGiollaCoda, Co. Tipperary; Bro. Kennedy, Co. Limerick; Mr. Power, Co. Cork; Mr. O'Sullivan Cork.

The full residential course is £105 for full board, that air fare is a similar amount or a coach from London about £60, but this latter method of travel is for the dedicated. They ask for a £25 deposit by 19th July. Convener: Mr. Michael Woulfe, Railway House, Middleton, Co. Cork. Telephone 021-631011. (Which I think is 00-353-21-631011 from the UK, GS)

Norman tells me regularly how wonderful this course is and how great the Irish hospitality. Last year, of the 250 attendees, there were 70 vistors from overseas including Britain, with the majority of British beekeepers coming from Hampshire and the majority of them from Basingstoke. I have more details available. Gordon.

NEIGHBOURS & BEES

Hello to all!

I am a novice beekeeper and maintain a few hives at on spare land where I work (1st year). I am soon to purchase a home in the suburbs, however, and I've queried my existing neighbors as to their feelings on having hives next door (to get a feel for my soon-to-be neighbors responses)

Their response: Overwhelmingly negative ! One person actually compared keeping bees to keeping poisonous snakes !!

I was wondering if anyone out there can point me in the direction of books, articles, etc. which are geared to allaying irrational fears of the general populace, as concerning honeybees and safety. Help !

Mike Beluch

From: Kevin Grabow email@omitted.anti.spam

I think before you decide to please your soon to be new neighbors you better find out what the local zoning laws are. I kept bees in a garage where they could fly in and out of a window, but the city I lived in had an ordinance against bees. The neighbors who knew I had bees (most didn't even know I had them) didn't mind so nobody turned me in.

From: "Dave D. Cawley" email@omitted.anti.spam

Set up an empty hive body for a while and then when nothing bad happens they'll feel better, move the bees in. If something bad happens, show them that it's empty and that it's not your fault, nature happens.

Or on a less underhanded note, find out what the ordinances are. If you're ok, then go for it. If there is a problem, make your neighbor PROVE it's YOUR bees. Just because a brown dog bites my kid, doesn't mean the elimination of ALL dogs in the neighborhood.

Dave D. Cawley; University Of Scranton

From: Eric Abell email@omitted.anti.spam

I love your idea of placing the empty hive. With many neighbors it is almost guaranteed that the empty hive will cause bee problems. :)

If someone is stung and wonder if it could be one of my girls, I always ask them to check for my brand under the left wing. I live in a rural area with lots of cattle and they all appreciate the brand idea.

Eric Abell

From: "Whitney S. Cranshaw" email@omitted.anti.spam

Regarding ordinances on beekeeping:

If city ordinances do not allow beekeeping, they may be able to be changed. We altered our city (Ft. Collins, CO) code a few years ago, prompted by the city's annexation of an area with existing beekeepers. Our new city "nuisance" code was modified very closely along the lines of a model code I acquired (I forgot the original source) so that it now allows beekeeping within the city limits.

Such codes have some limitations, reasonable ones I think - Minimum setbacks from property lines, measures to ensure flyways are above 6 ft when leaving the property, provision of water, etc.

If anyone would like a copy of the model code I used, please contact me personally: email@omitted.anti.spam

Whitney Cranshaw, Department of Entomology, Colorado State University

From: "Jeffrey P. Murray" email@omitted.anti.spam

>If city ordinances do not allow beekeeping, they may be able to be changed.

I found out a few years back that at least one Atlanta-area city ordinance (that of Decatur, GA) was ruled on in such as way as to specifically PROMOTE beekeeping within the city/county. Apparently some nuisance cases were brought up by neighbors of a beekeeper within Decatur city limits. These cases were not based on specific incidents, but were brought to court because neighbors found out about the bees and just didn't like the idea of them in their vicinity (NIMBY strikes again). The cases were intended to eliminate beekeeping within the city based on bees being "domesticated" animals; such animals are not allowed within city limits.

The Georgia Extension Service argued on behalf of the beekeeper that in fact bees are wild animals, and that they are exempt from such ordinances; beekeepers in this context provide a home for the bees, but that does not constitute ownership anymore than putting up a bird house does not constitute ownership of birds that use it. This argument was accepted, based in large part on a desire to encourage beekeeping in areas that are experiencing a decline in feral Apis populations.

My conclusion is that you shouldn't be shy about checking the ordinances; there is a changing mood in state governments, particularly those in agricultural states that are experiencing crop declines due to lack of adequate feral pollinators. In fact this does NOT mean that you should be irresponsible about keeping the bees, but the fact is that unless neighbors can prove that your bees specifically are causing a problem, you are likely to be home free.

Jeef

From: Casey Burns email@omitted.anti.spam

I had a neighbor complain to me about my bees - he said that every time they were out on their porch barbecuing the critters came around and ate the meat right off the grill. I pointed out his error: wasps were bothering him - but he remained unconvinced.....

From: Francis Ratnieks email@omitted.anti.spam

I have successfully kept bees in the small suburban gardens of the two previous houses that I lived in (in California) without annoying the neighbors. It all depends on how the neighbors feel about bees, if they know you have them, and your skill at keeping the bees in a way that prevents any annoyance. However, I have had problems keeping bees at work because of complaints from colleagues even though I worked at a university studying bees and my colleagues were scientists. Based upon these experiences I have concluded that one person who does not like bees for any reason and has the least objection (risk of stinging; yellow faeces on their car or building) will be able to prevent you from keeping bees. The best chance with your neighbors is to explain to them that you would like to keep bees, will keep them in a special "neighbor friendly" and safe way, but will remove them if they cause any problem. In this way they may give you the benefit of the doubt initially. To minimize, and hopefully eliminate, any problems with the bees follow the following guidelines: keep only very gentle bees; don't let them swarm; don't keep too many hives; inspect them only when weather conditions are good; don't allow robbing to occur; surround the apiary with a tall lattice fence or hedge so that the bees fly at 8ft or more above ground when passing over gardens; if the bees start collecting water from taps, pools, hoses etc. give them a feeder of water inside the hive. One problem that you cannot avoid is the yellow faeces which will rain down on all around. This is particularly a problem in arid areas without frequent rain to wash things clean. If you are a new beekeeper I suggest that you do not keep bees at home for at least a few years so that you can gain more experience managing colonies. It may be possible to get on the neighbor's good side by explaining that bees provide pollination and by giving out jars of honey. If you want to keep bees at home very much and plan on staying at that house for a long time then you should move very slowly, taking all precautions and assuaging the neighbors fears before you begin. You will have the highest chance of being successful if the gardens are rather large and have tall hedges or fences along the borders.

Dr. Francis L. W. Ratnieks, University of Sheffield

From: Liz Day email@omitted.anti.spam

I do not have experience with bees and neighbors. But I have plenty of experience with just neighbors, in suburban areas. (Not so much problems with me, as problems I see between other people.) What I see is that people in suburbs can be really intolerant of anything different, and their complaints can make you miserable. Further, smaller town councils will make new rules prohibiting things (plastic lawn edging, satellite dishes, certain breeds of dogs, practically anything) if a few people complain. Further, even if your present neighbors don't care, they may move and new people move in who object.

People can be completely irrational about such things, no amount of facts or proof will have an affect on them.

Liz Day Indianapolis, Indiana, central USA

From: BusyKnight email@omitted.anti.spam

Mark,

Since you asked for opinions, I'll give you mine. About 99% of the damage has already been done by YOU! You, like most beekeepers talk too much! (And to this group, I include myself).

Its natural, we like bees and sharing our knowledge and interests. But you would have been better off NOT asking your neighbors. If you are going to live in a "typical" subdivision, then you'll have privacy fences (wooden) or at least some way to keep your immediate neighbors from seeing the hive(s). You have already been sent several good suggestions on how to manage the hives & your neighbors. Keep them to just a couple, check your zoning city ordnances (if any), provide them water to drink (not your neighbor's swimming pool), etc.

But let me warn you of one thing; even if your city ordnance does allow for a hive or hives, you still may not be able to keep bees if your neighbors don't want you too. And all it takes is ONE neighbor! Most all cities also have laws on the books that allow for removal of "nuisance" pests. So even though you may be permitted to have honeybee hives, all that your neighbor(s) have to do is claim that they're a nuisance and off your bees go!

No matter how gentle or mild-mannered they are, all it takes is for one little kid to get stung by a WASP and YOUR bees are guilty! So my approach has always been: the fewer people who know, the better. And if any of the neighbors are on your side, you'd better set aside some honey for them (their continued support is by no means assured, especially if it was their kid who was stung)! Sneak the hive in, get it outa sight (outa mind), place it so the 'flyway' is up high and not facing any neighbor or their dogs or where kids play. In short, "Don't advertise"!!!

BusyKnight. Dallas, Texas.

From: Mike Beluch email@omitted.anti.spam

Thanks to all who have responded with helpful hints & tips. I'll do my best not to be a nuisance neighbor

Mike Beluch

NEW BEEKEEPERS.

I have been reading posts from people who are in beekeeping for their first couple of years. I asked myself how I got help with understanding what my bees were doing. I read books. Books are ok to a point.

The first book that started my interest in bees was a National Geographic, 1945-45. I didn't do the reading, my Grandfather did. I knew then that I wanted bees some day. When I was married and had my own place, it was time for the bees.

I did the thing with Sears, you buy their kit of boxes and everything but the bees. The bees would be sent to you in April. They send a "First Lessons of Beekeeping" book with the kit.

You know the male ego, we read instructions AFTER we are in trouble. I did read the first 35 pages, then the bees came in the mail and I was on Cloud Nine. I put them in their new box in a sunny location about 8:00 AM. I watched them for a little while then went into the house. At 10:00 AM the bees were on page 50 -- swarming. They went way up in a fir tree. I didn't have anyone around to talk to, but I did find out that I should have read the whole book. I even took my 30-06 out and blew the top of the tree off. I wanted my bees! I did call down south and asked for another swarm.

I found myself reading more and more about Honeybees. Beware, not all books have the same opinion on what to do with your bees. As you will see on this mailing-list, we don't all agree on anything -- but that's ok. We make progress because we have different views. You as a beekeeper will see all different types of behavior with your bees. You can ask questions and read it out of a book. This list has more than any book. The important part is YOU learning about YOUR bees.

Then someone new will be asking YOU questions about honey bees. There are many more questions than answers. Don't ever forget that we all start at the beginning; all of us have made mistakes and we learn by those mistakes.

Meet with other beekeepers whenever you can. In my 3rd year of beekeeping we had a state meeting in Bellingham Washington. I would stand around and listen to the old timers talking about bees. You don't learn with your mouth, you learn with your ears and eyes. I felt that I couldn't add anything to this group of old timers.

We had a few state apiary inspectors -- Old Charlie was the inspected for the Olympic peninsula which is the land to the west of Seattle. Charlie was in his 80's and very much respected as a beekeeper. He blew my world in ten seconds -- he walked right up to me, shook my hand and said, "Hi son, you have more honey on your hives than anyone else on the peninsula". I had ten hives then and put them in the best location I could find in the area. You can imagine what happened to me, I must have said "I don't know" 50 times.

That "I don't know" is still going on for me. New questions come up all the time. This mite problem (Varroa AND Acarine -- ed.) has run many people out of beekeeping. You have to follow the rules, use apistan strips just the way they recommend using them. The bees will do what they have been programmed to do. Bee space is bee space. You give them 1/2 inch they will put wax in it. The more you observe the better you will get.

We are nature's keeper. Bees are a part of nature, take good care of your bees and help others. We must express our concern of spraying insecticides all over the place. Where I live is out in the country and I gave my neighbors a little talk about my bees, and a jar of honey. They don't spray unless they call me -- if they just read the label it's a help.

I'm very glad now that my Grandfather read the article to me on honey bees. I have enjoyed them for a long time now. I hope to be around a lot longer to learn more about the honeybee.

Roy

RAISING QUEENS

I wish to use my own cells for spring splits this year. I can raise good cells, I will have drones available. However living in Minnesota time for buildup is short. I need to produce honey on these colonies. Have any of you northern beemen had experience with this? I will appreciate any advice you can give me.

I've had excellent queens reared by making strong nucs (4+ combs heavy with capped brood and bees and provided with plenty of food, eggs present) and placing them in deep hive bodies over strong colonies, screen board between. (Watch for swarm cells - you can use them for the nucs or remove them.) The lower colony keeps the upper nice and warm, and they have a small (1-2") upper entrance. If they make lots of cells sometimes I'll split the nucs further once the q cells are capped. Anyway, the point of this was originally to keep the parent colonies from swarming, taking 2-4 frames of capped brood and some bees away and replacing them with drawn combs. Combs from different hives can be combined to make the new splits strong. This has worked well, and the parent colonies seem to make honey like they never lost anything.

Its amazing how fast the upper "nuc" will explode in population once all that capped brood starts emerging. About 10 days after making them up, they can be moved to new stands, as the new queens will be getting ready to emerge. If you make up the nucs with already developing cells, you might want to wait til you see that the new q is laying already. Then move them. The field bees reinforce the lower colony and aren't lost.

These new colonies with young queens will collect excellent late summer/fall crops. If your main flow is earlier, you can try making these splits in late April instead of May, when I do. Problem here is that it's too early and the (parent) colony isn't quite bursting yet -- not enough to split. It is also probably harder for them to maintain temperature. Make the split too early, and then a month later they might try swarming again. In my experience, that is.

These new colonies are supered over single brood chamber and excluder. They seem to collect a lot more late flow honey than the parent colonies; they have real "get up and go." Food for thought....

EVALUATING QUEENS

I'm sure Dr. Nasr wont mind me supplying the following. Selection Index. Traits to be evaluated, on a points basis.

5. Exceptional; 4. Excellent; 3. Average; 2. Fair; 1. Poor.

Traits Suggested:

• Winterability
  1. a. Colony strength first inspection after winter.
     1. 2-3 frames of bees.
     2. 4-5 frames of bees
     3. 6-7 frames of bees
     4. 8-9 frames of bees
     5. 10 frames of bees or more.
  2. b. Stored Food.
     1. no food and starved
     2. no food, needs feeding
     3. enough food
     4. heavy none needed
     5. Very heavy none needed
• Brood Viability
  1. <75% solid brood
  2. 75-85% solid brood
  3. 80-90% solid brood
  4. 90-95% solid brood
  5. >95% solid brood
• Temperament
  1. Bees and queen Excited and running
  2. Bees and queen show some running 5-10 sting attempts
  3. Bees and queen fairly calm 2-4 sting attempts
  4. Bees and queen are calm and 1-2 sting attempts
  5. Bees and queen are very quiet, no sting attempts
• Cleaning Behaviour
  1. Messy bottom board.
  2. Fair amount of debris
  3. Little debris on bottom board
  4. Clean bottom board with slight debris
  5. Clean bottom board and brood nest
• Disease Status
  1. Examine brood, check and note. AFB should be eliminated.
• Honey Production
  1. Note on the check list total supers added.

We use a plastic pocket on on top of each inner cover, every time the hive is opened we note and record all of the above. Obviously we note the weather (temperament), queen right, and anything else which might be useful later. One final trait you might like to add, as your are dealing with various races: propolis production. If you can produce a bee which doesn't produce vast quantities of the sticky stuff it would be an advantage.

Any more traits? I think this is a valuable exercise that should be encouraged!!

BUMBLEBEES AND VARROA?

The question as to whether bumbles could function as an alternate host to Varroa has often been raised. Sanford's study and Plowright's comments confirm my longheld belief that the life cycle of Varroa is so distinct and 'rigid' that it could not use bumbles as a viable alternate host. So, the Varroa mites only association with bumble bees is the latter functioning as a possible (but unlikely) vector.

I suppose the primary source for bumble bees to obtain Varroa mites would be from honeybees. The most plausible scenario is a foraging honeybee dropping a varroa mite on a flower. It would then have to wait until a bumble bee comes by onto which would be carried further. It strikes me as being an event of low probability and one that I would consider as being a negligible threat to the introduction and spread of Varroa into beekeeping areas.

Here in British Columbia we have looked at this issue before because of the strongly enforced importation ban of honeybees from the mainland to Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands. This protected zone was established in 1987 (prior to the arrival of parasitic mites in BC) and has proven effective in having prevented the introduction of Varroa and tracheal mites (Acarapis woodi) into the area.

If bumble bees were proven to be frequent Varroa mite carriers, it would have posed a potential threat to the mite-free status in the protected beekeeping district. The concern came from the fact that fairly large shipments of flowering nursery stock, especially blooming heather, from the mainland to Vancouver Island take place regularly. It has been noted before that bumble bees (as well as syrphid flies) sometimes come along for the ride. However, when we examined some of these shipments, the number of bumble bees that were observed was negligible.

As Chris pointed out, the wandering behavior of drones ought to be recognised as a much greater threat to the introduction of Varroa. The Georgia Strait separating the island from the mainland is too wide for drones to cross. The narrower passages farther north could be crossed but the area is heavily forested with very little bee forage.

Here in BC, we still consider H. sapiens as the most serious threat to the introduction of Varroa into new beekeeping areas and as such, most of our efforts have been directed towards education and creating greater awareness about the dangers of spreading pests.

Paul van Westendorp, Provincial Apiculturist, British Columbia, Canada.

CHALKBROOD

Hello Bee-Liners

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, David Eyre wrote:

No doubt you're right "Why do we cull the Queen?" That's a bit like killing the messenger if you don't like the news! This practice has gone on for years, if you find chalkbrood then requeen, whereas ventilation will fix the problem! Does anyone want to comment?

I know of two ways requeening can help with this disease. Requeening a colony causes a break in the production of brood. This can give the bees time to clean up the infection.

If the new queen's offspring have hygienic behavior, they will remove dead brood from the hive.

For what its worth, we seldom see much chalkbrood since we began requeening with New World Carniolans and more recently, with our own queens. This has also been observed by others in this area.

It is not impossible because we find the same relation between the productivity and agressivity: the natural high productive bee for our area, our old brown bee, is in general closely related to its agressivness. It is now well known that these characters could be quite separate. The Buckfast bee is a high productive bee with a sweet character.

[Why] requeen [when] ventilation will fix the problem! Does anyone want to comment?

Allen Dick email@omitted.anti.spam wrote

There are some strains that are more susceptible to CB, and requeening quite often helps. We find that under identical conditions, some hives will, and some not have CB.

... Young queens are generally considered to be more prolific. But who knows, maybe some bees just ventilate better??

"Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter" email@omitted.anti.spam wrote the same...

I am firmly convinced that some bees are more susceptible to chalkbrood than others. Certainly genetic hygienic behaviour has a very positive influence. There may also be just a general increase in vigor with a young queen, as opposed to an old one.

I have been rigidly excluding chalkbrood from all my breeding stock; even just the slightest trace disqualifies a queen. I see a lot less of it now than in previous years, and when I do, it is usually from a bought queen, which is a good argument for trying to breed a higher percentage of my own.

Regards

Jean-Marie email@omitted.anti.spam